Kohl Christensen

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© 2017 Deepwatersurf

Invitee: One Day the Eddie Ran

May 10, 2017 by Kohl Christensen

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Southern Hemisphere winter 2013. A massive low got the whole South Pacific rumbling. We decided to head to Rapa Nui. Hosted by @haumoana @utiaraki and the rest of the crew with so much aloha . The island is magical ✨. Raw and beautiful with bone crushing power. The swell was building, sunny and offshore. Dreamy conditions but big and ferocious. @surfnavarro stayed behind in Chile to prepare for the Big Wave Event at Punta de Lobos. I had the choice to stay on Rapa Nui or jump on a 2pm flight to chase the swell to Chile in order to make the event the following day at Punta de Lobos. I left and still regret the decision. The event was a windy mushy 12-14 ft. (Wind guru was spot on) @fariasmoreno

August 17th 2012. We had chased a big south swell down to Chile for some wild @surfnavarro adventure, beat up and salty we followed the swell back up the coast to Puerto Escondido. I snapped this shot of @gerglong early in the morning before we paddled out. He's usually the first guy out there on the big days.

'An old surfer, CK, comes across a lost photo of a secret wave from his younger years. He tells the story of 'Stonehead' to his grandchild recollecting memories of the session that is forever engraved in his memory. This is a story of adventure and dreams.' Mike Pietsch drops into a bomb at 'Stonehead' @deheeckeren. Next showing. Seal Beach Film Festival. #stoneheadisreal

Punta de Lobos. Sección el Mirador. A huge restoration project of the native by the @fundacionpuntadelobos is in process and it's all just left around the corner from @hotelalaia. #soloizquierdas

Winter ☃️. #soloizquierdas @deheeckeren #vanillafluff

High above Santiago. @deheeckeren #soloizquierdas

Sometimes it's just left around the corner. #soloizquierdas

Ramon Navarro ( @surfnavarro ) rips down the line on an @fcdsurfboards 9'8 gun at his home break Punta de Lobos. I chose this photo from the swell to share because it demonstrates how far the level of progression has come since he started surfing big Lobos. You can clearly see the wave feathering far down the line and starting to break. Good boards, jetskis with experienced drivers for rescue and solid teamwork. If he makes the section, awesome, if he doesn't he has a plan. That's what's called being a 'risk technician'. We are big wave surfers, we take risks. Having a plan if it doesn't work out the way we want it to helps us push the sport by allowing us to return and do it again. @pichilemusurfcity #soloizquierdas. So, did he make the section?

Spring Pipeline. @jrmaosi

'Dis guy Tevita Gukilau (@_veet_ ) just won the trials at #cloudbreak for a spot into the @wsl WCT event. I got a good feeling about this year, da brada is in sync!. By the way, what happened @chebula_ ?? . @deheeckeren @wolfofwailoaloa #vanillafluff

Photo by @_danielrusso_

The hunt for that perfect combination of snow and surf will take us to some pretty far out locations. @forrestshearer enjoying the ride. @jeffpunkrockhoke

Springtime sledding @ the #Pipeline. @fcdsurfboards @matt_castiglione_662

Nelscott reef breaks far, far from shore. It's cold, sharky and has large tide swings which cause the current to rip north or south. The lineup shifts with the tide, making it difficult to be in the right spot. I'm always impressed with the local crew that charge the place on a regular basis . This January I got to share some waves with them and luckily found myself in the right spot for this left. Most of the lefts closeout in the end but the right one can be a zinger of a ride. Testing the waters on my new @fcdsurfboards 11'0 quad. @lookouttolookin #pnw