By Rusty Russell Brian Keaulana developed the high surf risk management system. The world’s best big wave surfers have united at the North Shores Turtle Bay Resort for two days of intensive training in theoretical based high surf rescue techniques and scenarios. Spearheaded by surfers Kohl Christensen & Danilo Couto, the goal of the course […]
By Rusty Russell Like an X that marks the spot. There was no ‘you should have been here yesterday’. The postcard perfect islands of Tavarua & Namotu were full. Pro surfers, their wives, girlfriends & entourages cram the intimate sun soaked islands. Drenched in coconuts, white sand and sea shells these islands greet you warm, […]
Categories: Deep Thoughts
By Kohl Christensen Its been raining for days in Hawaii. The ground is saturated, not much to do on my farm except wait till it dries out. The mud is thick, a red-brown paste that stains everything. Mosquitoes. Usually when we get this wintertime sogginess it means that the moisture is so thick over the […]
Categories: Deep Thoughts
By Rusty Russell HAWAII MOVERS 3.00am, dark and were on our third mission to Jaws in one week. Hindsight suggests we should have just stayed on Maui. As forecasts updated so too did our travel plans – Pe’ahi calling us back. Peʻahi is a place on the north shore of the island of Maui. The […]
By Dusty Middleton She jogged down to Jim and Pono and interrupted their conversation. “Um, what about the safety meeting?” she asked. Pono looked back at the trees confused, he smiled at her, “That was it.” “oh,” she said quietly. “Should I know anything… ? I’ve never been on one of these boats.” Pono nodded, […]
In the years before I surfed Waimea, my favorite stories were always those of the biggest days on the north shore. I’d sit quietly and digest the exploits and adventures told around dying barbeques with the last helpings of Pisco and the last swigs of Tequila. I’d listen with full attention and curiosity, thirsty for any knowledge that might save my life in the winters ahead.
The stories I learned… the days over twenty feet, the days along the outer reefs, always included mention of the boogie man. He was a fixture. He was a mystery to be named and respected with any tale told. It seemed he was always there, either waiting tensly in the parking lot or floating alone, outside in a giant sea.
Photo by Rusty Russell Big wave surfers from all over the world had watched the low-pressure form off the East coast of Australia and start to push the south swell toward Fiji. Crew began flying in from all around the world as the official forecast was predicting massive surf. Almost imaginary conditions greeted us at […]